WHEN IN… MARFA

Marfa was founded in the early 1880s as a railroad water stop and freight hub, but the story of Marfa as an art destination really began in the early 1970s with Donald Judd. Judd moved to Marfa from New York in 1971. His vision was to transform the relationship between art, space, and environment.

Today, the vast desert, dramatic skies, and eclectic mix of history, art, and culture create a dynamic canvas for creatives to immerse in.

Stay

Now that El Cosmico is no longer operating, Marfa Saint George is the go-to stay in town. A stylish hotel, reflective of the minimalism aesthetic Marfa is known for and the location is right in the center of town. It has all the things; cocktail lounge, swimming pool (with bar), and restaurant.

Dine

Dinner at Cochineal. One of my favorite restaurants, and always our first dinner in Marfa, is the tasting menu here. Executive Chef Alexandra Gates cooking is rooted in the creative use of the finest ingredients prepared and presented with thoughtfulness and attention to detail. Dishes are crafted with ingredients sourced from their on-site garden as well as from farmers, ranchers and others throughout Texas. 

Afternoon cocktails at Marfa Spirits. Founded in 2018, the owners were originally drawn to Marfa because of the Sotol plants that grow wild throughout the Chihuahuan Desert. They explore a wide cross-section of the spirits world — Sotol, Mezcal, Tequila are the staples, but also rum made with molasses sourced from the last sugar cane mill in South Texas, high desert Gin, Brandy, Rio Grande Valley citrus liqueurs, and Far West Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey.

All day at The Sentinel. Home to The Big Bend Sentinel and Presidio International, The Sentinel is also a coffee shop, café, cocktail bar and curated retail space. Often we’ll start with a coffee and end up with a margarita. Its really a hub for all day imbibing and shopping the various local goods, art, and décor of West Texas.

Breakfast burrito at Marfa Burrito. I crave Marfa burrito. Walking into in takes me back to my Auntie Carmen’s kitchen. Homemade tortillas, eggs and cheese. Simply delicious. The walls are covered in graffiti, signatures from customers, photos of locals and celebrity customers (Matthew McConaughey, Mark Ruffalo), and shrines to Selena and Pancho Villa.

Shop

Garza Marfa. With Jamey’s background in fine arts and welding and Constance’s experience with textile and hues, the husband and wife team began to create together after relocating from the California coast to the high plains desert of Trans-Pecos in 2003. Influenced both by the materials and simplicity of living in the desert and their background of coastal living, the duo created the ultimate design & décor shop with handmade furnishings, ceramics, textiles and glassware.

Cactus Liquor. At Faith Gay and Joey Benton’s liquor store, you can buy a succulent and an incredible bottle of agave based spirits. good bottle of tequila.

Wrong Marfa. The name was the idea of artist Camp Bosworth, who, with his partner Buck Johnston, cofounded the store and gallery that’s guided by their idiosyncratic taste in handcrafted ceramics and jewelry as well as books and art. Incredibly curated by Buck and Camp Bosworth. Unique treasures and gorgeous jewelry. 

Among my Souvenirs, Cobra Rock, Moonlight Gemstones, and so many other shops. Get on a bike and explore.

Culture

Marfa Invitational's Sculpture Park champions exploration and innovation via the foundation's permanent collection of monumental outdoor works.  

Chinati Foundation remains the cornerstone: more than 30 buildings host permanent works by 13 artists, in large minimal-art installations.

Ballroom Marfa, housed in a repurposed 1920s ballroom, is a non‐collecting contemporary art space that hosts rotating exhibitions, performances, film screenings, etc.

Before you go:

Watch ‘I love Dick’ with Katherine Hahn & Kevin Bacon about the art life in Marfa.

Listen to Marfa Public Radio 93.5
*Businesses tend to open & shut unexpectedly, so check ahead of time and plan your trip around the weekend. Most everything’s shut on Mondays and Tuesdays.